Camping and Caravan Site Mains Extension Hook Up Leads

※ Download: Motorhome hook up lead

Especially useful for testing for polarity reversal. There may be further costs such as shipping which have not been taken into account. Worse still, it could make any metallic outer surfaces live, with the risk of electric shock.

Whatever length of cable you uses make sure it is fully unwound when you use it. If it trips, the lead is at fault... Worse still, it could make any metallic outer surfaces live, with the risk of electric shock. Occasionally, if a cold spell occurs at times of high occupancy and all users switch on electrical heaters, kettles etc.

Glossary - Wiring for this and the hook-up lead plug should be self-explanatory — live to live, neutral to neutral and earth to earth, as marked on the free plugs and socket.

Read on if you want to learn how to use our electric hook-up facility safely and efficiently. There are two main ways you can power electrical devices on the campsite. The first is to use a leisure battery, which is like a car battery and provides a 12V supply, and the second is an electric hook-up. The power on our site is designed on the basis of diversity so the main site power supply is geared up to an average electrical usage assuming not all hook-ups take 10A at any one time. Occasionally, if a cold spell occurs at times of high occupancy and all users switch on electrical heaters, kettles etc. Tripping the electrical supply can make you unpopular on site. Even a 12V battery can give you a nasty shock if used incorrectly. Used in the right way however, you can benefit from mains electricity and, if you take the right precautions, you can do it safely. Follow these tips below and take professional advice from your equipment supplier to ensure your camping trip is safe and comfortable! However, we have overall responsibility for the safety of our guests while on site so if we feel that any electrical equipment does not conform to safety standards or is connected to the supply in an unsafe manner, we will disconnect the camping unit. You must use a purpose-built lead designed for bringing electricity to your unit. These leads will have special weather-proof plugs made to connect to the sites hook-up. We recommend you use a cable length of 25m as the layout of some of our pitches means that you can sometimes be pitched a little distance from the hook-up bollard. These will have two or more damp-proof sockets, each of which will take an ordinary 13A plug the same as you use at home. This is designed to cut off the supply immediately in the case of a leakage of current to earth. This can occur when someone touches an appliance that is damp, particularly if the person is standing on damp ground. If it fails to operate it is not safe to use and you will need to get it checked by a suitably qualified person. Tents can be damp and moisture and electricity do not mix. The socket end of the cable will usually have some means of fixing it well above ground level. You will need to think about the equipment you want to use on site. If you are on a campsite with a 10A supply like ours, you will have around 2. That means you could run a low watt camping or travel kettle around 750 Watts plus a low watt toaster 900 Watts. But if someone then plugs in a low 600W hair dryer you are dangerously close to tripping the electrics. Of course, not all appliances are the same so the best thing to do is add up all the Watts of the appliances you want to use at the same time, and make sure it stays below the amount of Watts 2.

How to get mains power into your tent
When on the continent I take an addition 25m cable for those great pitches that are a bit too far away from the plug in point. This is designed to cut off the supply immediately in the case of a leakage of current to earth. These will have two or more damp-proof sockets, each of which will take an ordinary 13A plug the same as you use at home. I will be ordering more products soon!!!! It is common however to find lesser cables where each core is only 1. The best way to avoid a problem is to plan ahead and familiarise yourself with the electrical needs of all the appliances you may use in your motorhome. You must use a purpose-built lead designed for bringing electricity to your unit. If you are on a campsite with a 10A supply like ours, you will have around 2. Campsite owners and management team in the case of the Club, the Club and its Holiday Site Managers are responsible for the safety of the electrical supply equipment up to the socket outlet on the site bollard where you connect your hook-up cable. Worse still, it could make any metallic outer surfaces live, with the risk of electric shock.